Russian imperial stout how long in primary

The reason this one won't be brewed soon is multi-fold. I'm too new at this. I need to increase my skills, improve my techniques, and upgrade my equipment a little. I'm ordering an eight gallon bucket, which is what I'll undoubtedly brew my RIS and upcoming barleywine in. Temperature control. I don't have any right now.

Therefore I'm at the mercy of the temperature I can keep my closet, which is pretty steadily F. This will change though, as I'll only be where I'm at until January, when I'll have a better place to brew. I will probably try an imperial stout when I can better control the temperatures AND keep things cooler.

I hope to have a keg setup next year hopefully two or three kegs. The bottling questions were asked as a knowledge increasing measure, but I'm hoping not to have to bottle when I get to this beer. I am keeping a bookmark to this thread however, and will tweak the recipe and run it past you guys again before it gets brewed!

Thanks man! One thing I would like to stress for a big beer like this is fermentation temperature control. A beer of this size will tend to really heat up during the first four days of ferment. You may want to consider a swamp cooler for this one. One of those beers you can serve to non-beer people, and if they have a sweet-tooth at all would likely be impressed!

I have an air blow gun tool hooked up to my C02 and I purge out the bottles and quickly fill them from the bottom up with very little pressure psi until it starts overflowing with beer only no foam and then slowly pull out the hose while the tap is still on to get the bottle as full as possible.

I did an RIS that finished at 1. Imperial stouts should definitely have good body, but could you finish a 12 oz bottle of a 1. It all depends on what you like. The great thing about having a big beer like this on tap is you can easily pour yourself small pour and enjoy it without thinking you have to finish an entire bottle.

Could it be 5lbs wheat OR chit malt? He also used some flaked grain, which I substituted with chit malt. I would pay more attention to the grain percentages and adjust for your system. If i enter the recipe in Brunwater the predicted pH is under 5. I just kegged my first imperial stout. Figure it will be 2. Does that sound too high for the style? Sounds pretty good to me, it really depends on your preference.

I usually go around 2. My recipe is for 15 liters and I have placed 2 packs but the fermentation has been very vigorous, and I always doubt if one would not be enough …. Hey Scott! Did you just throw the scraped vanilla beans in to the keg? Hey Tyler, I hope it turns out great! Lots of body, but dangerously drinkable. If bottling, either bottle fresh and age for months before opening.

Or, secondary in a 5 gallon carboy for 2 months. Then pitch a fresh pack of yeast and bottle as usual. Once bottles are carbonated normal two weeks usually , crack open and enjoy.

If kegging, secondary for 3 months, then keg and carbonate as usual. Maybe even KBS or Parabola. Well, that blog post is coming soon.

Trust me, it is coming soon. Stay thirsty! Producing that kind of beer, though, takes some careful planning and production.

Even intense beers need some guardrails and balance. I like to start the grist with about 80—85 percent of a good bready base malt Maris Otter is a good choice , and then fill in the gaps with a variety of light and dark crystals, some brown malt, and a lighter chocolate malt before capping it off with about 1—2 percent of an intense black malt black patent or roasted barley.

You can, of course, also go heavier in some areas than others, even in the black malt family, depending on the overall flavor profile and balance found in the recipe. Be creative, and choose your malts with a purpose: Select by flavor, and make sure you have enough of each that its contribution will be noticeable!

Having said that, I prefer to go easier on the black malt and heavier on the hops, especially with some big mid-boil additions that will add bitterness and flavor.

Finally, choose a yeast with a high alcohol tolerance and some clean ester character. By all means, choose a yeast that will contribute some flavor, but not one that will compete with the rest of the recipe. Building the beer is one thing — making it is another. For as complex as this beer is, its process needs just a couple of relatively minor tweaks at the top and bottom.

First, mash at your normal temperature or a little below. I know we want a rich mouthfeel, but we should have plenty of residual sugars to get the job done. Second, ferment relatively cool and long, with plenty of yeast and oxygen.

We want a clean fermentation. There will be more than enough alcohol presence without us roughing it up a bit, so make a starter or increase the amount of purchased yeast and get lots of oxygen or air into the chilled beer before pitching. With the amount of simple sugars hanging around, the yeast will want to take off.

The challenge is significant, but more than worth it. Mill the grains, then mix with 5. Sparge the grains with enough water to obtain 7 gallons Stir in demerara sugar until dissolved. Boil for 90 minutes, adding hops and yeast nutrients according to the ingredient list. Aerate with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch yeast. Rack beer into a 5-gallon 19 L heat-pasteurized white oak Bourbon barrel. Chips should be soaked in Bourbon for two weeks prior to being added to the beer.

When complete, bottle.